North Bali - Off The Beaten Track
The North of Bali is probably one of the most underrated places on the Island of the Gods. And I can understand why - after coming to Bali for the last five or so years, we never really went further than the beautiful ridge of volcanoes of the Kintamani region. When in reality, the sleepy villages of North Bali are only another hour’s ride from Mount Batur and its famous cafés.
Before reaching the Northern side of Bali, one must first cross the small mountain range of Kintamani. If you get lucky and the weather is clear, there is a good chance you will be able to see all three mountains towering behind one another: Mount Batur, Mount Abang and the most famous, Mount Agung. The views from the ring road over the two calderas all the way down to Lake Batur are breathtaking and well worth a visit in itself. If it's an overcast day however, temperatures can drop to as low as 12 degrees Celsius - not exactly tropical vibes.
After maneuvering some pretty windy roads that are lined with potholes and stray dogs, the road continues through a thick, almost European looking forest (yes - there are forests in Bali!) before it pops out on the Northern side of the range. You can catch the first glimpses of the ocean below while whizzing downhill through small villages dedicated to farming. The vegetation changes almost by the minute: From pine trees to orange and chili plantations further up, to rolling hills covered in thousands of palm trees and tropical fruit stalls down below.
The pace of life is notably slower here. Kids are waving as we ride past, cows are lazily grazing in the warm morning sun and the scent of the nearby ocean wafts tantalizingly through the palm fringed laneways. Men sit in doorways drinking Kopi Bali while women lay out the daily offerings. Life seems more simple up North.
We are invited to participate in the preparations for the very important Galungan festival, which in accordance with the Balinese calendar happens all over Bali every 210 days. There is a long standing tradition for Balinese people to slaughter a pig and prepare the meat for important festivals such as Galungan and Kuningan (10 days after Galungan). The live pig usually gets delivered one or two days before the Ceremony Day and will be slaughtered single handedly in front of the family compound. The pig then gets disected and the meat is shared with everyone who chipped in the purchase.
Kadek and his family live in a small town called Tejakula, which is rich in culture and tradition. Their house is situated down a set of narrow laneways and on the side of a hill that leads into the nearby Jungle. As we arrive, Gede, the eldest son is grilling fresh pork meat skewers made from lemongrass stalks over a smoking fire of dried coconuts. Kadek is mixing the all important Lawar while his wife is finishing off the Babi Kecap in the small family kitchen. The traditional way is the best way we get told.
As we sit together by the side of the mountain, drinking tea and discussing the unique customs of this region, the family dog Koko keeps a watchful eye on us. This area of Bali doesn’t see a lot of tourists, probably due to the lack of modern infrastructure and its relative remoteness. Instead, there are various cottage industries dotted along the Coast, including sea salt farming, fishing and the production of virgin coconut oil. There are no fancy Cafés or Hotels, so the only food available is local Indonesian food from small road side Warungs. The palm fringed black sand beaches are lined with colourful fishing boats and the pristine water invites snorkellers and divers alike. Heading a little further along the Coast, Les waterfall provides a refreshingly cool change of scenery.
After a hearty breakfast of three different pork dishes and rice, we wonder back through the village and soak up the anticipation of the big day. We are met with smiles and laughter all around and get offered even more pork skewers. Our bellies and hearts are full from the generosity of the people and the honour to experience the authentic way of life that this region still has to offer. Until the next Galungan festival in 210 days!